Laptop Not Powering On Issues & Resolutions

Tuesday, December 23, 2014

There are quite a few different reasons why a laptop can have issues powering on. The most common would be a faulty DC Jack. Though other things like a faulty GPU, or incorrectly seated RAM, or a blown motherboard component, a bad battery, a damaged hard drive, a short in the ac adapter, or even liquid damage can as well… So you see; it is not only the power area that can fail rendering the laptop unable to power on and stay powered on it can be a variety of different issues, and it will be up to you to do process of elimination testing to rule out all other possible problems and pinpoint the exact component causing the issue.


I will go ahead and give you a few scenarios and then resolve the issues for you by showing you how to do process of elimination testing.

Scenario: 
The laptop in front of you will power on when the power button/switch is pushed, it will even splash the BIOS screen (the screen showing the Laptops manufacturers logo), then shuts itself down.

Answer:
Try to remove the Laptop battery pack and plug the AC Adapter in and start to powering it on… If the same problem, continue…

Remove the RAM cover on the underside of the laptop (some RAM slots are also situated under the keyboard on the top side of the Motherboard; you will determine the location and reseat both sticks. Then attempt to power back on after reseating the RAM. Reseating the RAM means that you remove both RAM sticks and place them back into the DIMM slots again to ensure they are in straight and not at an angle or slightly ajar.

If you are still getting the same failure when powering on, then pull out both sticks of RAM again and just use one stick, placing it in DIMM 1 first, then checking Power, then trying just DIMM 2, then trying to power on, then taking the 2nd stick of RAM and doing the same thing… trying DIMM1 then DIMM2… That will either rule out the RAM as being the issue if nothing changes, or it will correct the issue, which would also tell you that you have a faulty DIMM slot if the laptop Runs and Powers on good with 1 missing RAM stick…

If same problem persist, go on to the Hard Drive by simply removing it. Remove or unplug it from the port and set it aside, then try powering up the laptop because if the hard drive had any issues with it that were stopping the laptop from powering on, removing the drive should bypass the issue and allow the laptop to turn on. Liquid damage to the hard drive is a common reason this can happen… Liquid damage to the internal components can cause power redirection where the contact pads join and when this occurs, it will tell the motherboard to shut down to prevent further damage. If the laptop is still not powering on, continue with process of elimination testing…

So you have now ruled out the Battery, the DC Jack, the RAM (memory) and the hard drive as being the causing issue. Note here, that, you have ruled out the DC Jack simply because it is powering on initially, then, shutting down. If the jack were faulty, you would get no power initially, or the shutdowns would be more sporadic and only occur when the cord or plug were moved slightly. Battery was ruled out simply for the fact that removing it didn’t change the fault.

So, now that you still have a laptop that won’t power on properly, and you have ruled out the easier parts/components, you will now have to move on to disassembling the laptop to begin troubleshooting and viewing all parts and components.

While disassembling the laptop, you will be looking for certain things along the way as the root of the failure causing the laptop to not power up properly. You will basically be looking at everything. Something as simple as crossing pins inside the Ethernet/cat5 cable input port that are bent and touching one another, or possibly even crossed pins inside the USB port can cause the laptop to power on then shut down. So you will need to closely look at all parts and components now to determine where the failure has occurred.

What you need to do next is to look for signs of liquid damage, look for motherboard damage, and or look for blown components.

Blown component is quite common though nothing like a Desktop computer component failure. The only similarity between a desktop motherboard and a laptop motherboard when relating board failures…. Is the failure of Capacitors. The failing of capacitors is probably the most common component that fails on either board. Remember here that the capacitors on a laptop motherboard differ from those on a desktop computers motherboard. Though some laptop motherboards will use electrolytic capacitors, the majority of capacitors on a laptop motherboard will be tantalum capacitors (no gasses).

When looking for signs of liquid damage, first you want to press down on all the keys of the laptops keyboard, you are doing this to feel for ?crispiness? or sticking keys. Since most liquid spills will occur over the keyboard, this is the first place that will be affected. If a keyboard is saturated in liquid, and that liquid happens to flow through the protective plastic film under the keys, it can damage the digitizer contact pads of the keyboard, it can also travel through the keyboard and down to the motherboard. Most people will leave the battery in and can even leave the laptop plugged in after a spill occurs, but what they don’t realize is that the electricity that is travelling through the laptop is continuing to cause damage to all the areas that contain liquid. The liquid will dry eventually if left untouched, though it will take a lot longer to dry if any liquid leaked inside the laptops case and into the motherboard area. I have seen liquid spills 2 months old that still had ?puddles? of  liquid still residing on the motherboard and on the components. This can occur under IC chips, under protective stickers that are placed on most motherboards, and even in the open areas.

You should now also look at the palm rest and bottom base, you will be looking for liquid stream remains. When liquid touches the case parts, it is more visible on the inner side of the parts than the outer, though still visible on the outer too.

Liquid will leave a ?trail? of evidence behind when spillage occurs, you will see the plastic has turned a different color and will have ?flow? remains from the liquid. When disassembled, you will also look at the motherboard for any remains of liquid. Liquid will also leave a visible trail on any PCB (printed circuit board). Water will dry clear to whitish in color, Powdery looking when dried. Milk will dry to a white color; it can also stay thick and not completely dissipate. Coffee, Soda, Beer will all dry to a dark brownish to tan color and will also usually stay pretty thick – not completely dissipating. Water seems to cause the most damage of all the liquids common to a spill.

Liquid that is left on any PCB that has power supplied to it will corrode the solder contacts on the PCB. This is where you will be able to visually see a whitish powdery (looks like batter acid) substance. It will continue to corrode to the point that it will cause that component to short out and possibly continue to further damage surrounding components and the PCB itself. Worst case scenario is that the laptop could potentially set fire. And, yes… a laptop can most certainly ?set fire?… I have personally seen it happen numerous times, I have also had customers that were Fire Chiefs that would show me the pictures of the houses burnt to the ground, then showing me the photo of the burnt/melted laptop with their lids still open as being determined the cause of the fire.

So most important rule here if potential liquid damage has occurred is to remove any and all sources of power running through the laptop, right down to the CMOS battery (if the plug in type)… then complete disassembly of the laptop is a must, you must remove all traces of past and present liquid or residue or corrosion.

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